Ouarzazate

The Taourirt kasbah keeps its rammed earth walls and painted poplar ceilings. The film studios, here since 1983, employ part of the town. Ait Ben Haddou is some thirty kilometres away, on the old caravan road towards the Sahara.

Ouarzazate is the gate to the south. Beyond it begins the Draa valley, the palm groves, then the desert. The light is harder here and the colours more direct.

The Taourirt kasbah belonged to the pasha of Marrakech. Its rammed earth walls and painted poplar ceilings were restored with raw earth, using the original techniques.

The film studios have been here since 1983 and employ part of the town. Sets are left standing after shooting, which gives you fake ruins beside real kasbahs.

Ait Ben Haddou is some thirty kilometres away, on the old caravan road. The ksar has been listed since 1987 and a few families still live there. You cross it on foot, climbing to the collective granary.

Draa valley rugs mix wool and goat hair. The dyes come from henna, indigo and pomegranate. A three metre rug takes two months.